Hi,

Increase the cap height a little and ease on the armround line a little. May be by around 1/2". That should give you the needed measurement. 

Cap height is the distance from the shoulder tip to the biceps.

Did not receive any reference image here. 

What is the issue you are facing when you draft the sleeves pattern as shown in this class?.  Why do you want to create a very deep curve at the front armhole?  Sorry the question is not very clear to me. 

Hi,

8 or 8.5" is fine. Just measure straight. This measurement was given only so that beginners get a rough idea on which part of the scale to use.  You just need to get a nice smooth curve.  

Hi,

Is there anything I can help you with?

Hi,

Cap height remains the same, only the length of the sleeve increases. Check our free tutorial on drafting different sleeve lengths.

https://www.savisfashionstudio.com/sleeve-drafting-theory

In your question "From the mid point, you marked 1/2" inward towards body side to make back arm hole curve." - Are you referring to the sleeves pattern? Do you mean 1/2" marked above from the midpoint. If yes, this remains the same for drafting the back curve in the sleeves pattern. 

Yes, this marking is done just to give an idea to beginners as to which part of the armhole curve ruler to use.  This can be used for all sizes. 

Hi,

Which presser foot are you referring to? The presser foot meant for industrial sewing machine will suti Jack F4. 

We normally add the seam allowance on fabric before cutting the fabric. We do not include the seam allowance in the paper pattern. However, if you wish you may add the seam allowance in the pattern and then cut the pattern. 

In the sleeve pattern, you may reduce the ease given by 1/4" and redraw the curves. While sewing slightly stretch the front sleeves only in the curved part. 

Hi,

Are you getting a difference when attaching sleeves to the armhole?

Hi, that's great.  Once you complete the garment, kindly take a clear picture and upload in the "Project upload" link below the concerned class and also kindly take time to leave a review/rating for the classes you enroll. 

Happy Sewing!

Hi,

If the same armround and cap height measurement is used while drafting the sleeves pattern, how would it change everytime?  Are you saying it is not matching with the body pattern armhole? That could happen if the shoulder measurement varies. 

It can be used for all sizes, I just marked it to make it easy for beginners to get an idea as to which part of this scale to use. 

The marking on the armhole curve scale is done only to give an idea to beginners as to which part of the scale to use.  Yes the marking can be used for blouse sleeve drafting too. 

Hi Usha, 

After drafting the body pattern, always measure the front and back armhole curves and see that it matches with the body armhole measurement plus ease. If less/more - shift the chest line down/up and redraw the curves. 

Then draft the sleeves pattern and again you need to measure the front and back curves and it should match with the body pattern. If less/more - increase/reduce the ease and redraw the curves. 

Also you may end up with excess fabric in sleeves, if you unknowingly stretch the sleeve fabric when sewing.

Thank you. 

Do you mean the back part of the sleeves is longer then the front?

In sleeve drafting, use the original armround measurement. After drawing the curves, again measure the front and back curves and if less/more, increase/reduce the ease and redraw the curves.